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Transnational Thursday for June 13, 2024

Transnational Thursday is a thread for people to discuss international news, foreign policy or international relations history. Feel free as well to drop in with coverage of countries you’re interested in, talk about ongoing dynamics like the wars in Israel or Ukraine, or even just whatever you’re reading.

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In Japan, after the long dark of tourist-free COVID and with a yen at its weakest in almost 40 years, the throngs of visitors have returned. With a vengeance.

Issues include: People dropping their garbage in various inappropriate places (including Mt. Fuji, which you now must pay to climb, as well as anywhere else since public garbage bins are not particularly common in Japan), overcrowding tourist spots or places near tourist spots (like parking lots), harassing geiko (geisha) by aggressively demanding photo ops, and generally poor form..

I read an article recently (written by a Japanese guy) that this is all Japan"s fault. <- This is in Japanese but a good summary is in this X thread.. Basically the argument is that when Japan began stressing the term omotenashi in its bid for the Olympics, a term which basically means "generous hospitality," the idea on planet earth suddenly became that Japanese are pushovers and you can come here, kick up your feet, and be served warm sake by subservient and obedient Japanese hosts, we are at. Your. Service. Thus people, armed with this knowledge, arrive in hordes to take advantage.

I think the above argument, while you have to give it kudos for being self-flagellating in the best Japanese sense (while also slightly condescending and arrogant--because do foreign visitors really look up and try to understand esoteric terms like omotenashi? I wouldn't think so.) is somewhat off the mark.

What it boils down to is Japanese manners and customs are simply less boisterous in most contexts than those of the visiting cultures. So people talking in normal voices on trains is somewhat nerve-wracking. People walking three or four abreast down a busy sidewalk is outrageous. And of course manhandling Kohana-chan on her way to the teahouse because damn this is an Instagram moment if ever there was one, is, yes, a bit gauche.

But it's pretty bad. Shinsaibashi is like Chinatown on steroids. You see lines 2 blocks long to get into Hermès and Rolex, though the Richard Mille shops still seem quiet and relatively unpopulated. I hear more Korean in some areas than Japanese.

Anyway so far it's just a matter of Japan being--inexplicably--unprepared for a large number of international travelers. Solutions have not been particularly inspired. In Kyoto they simply do not let tourists enter certain sidestreets in Gion.. I expect the bottom-line folks are loving it, but the regular Japanese in most areas do not. Kyoto is, for me, at least on the normal circuits I would traverse, no longer very pleasant. But then I'm a tetchy ass.

In Kyoto they simply do not let tourists enter certain sidestreets in Gion.

How do they tell a Korean expat living in Kyoto apart from a Japanese tourist from Sapporo? Or a Japanese-American tourist?

Japanese tourists don't count as tourists obviously, tourist just means gaijin. For the rest they get excluded. I doubt a Japanese-American could get past a real Japanese person, even at a glance(ignoring that racially pure Japanese-Americans are almost non-existent).

Any of the people you listed (Japanese, non-Japanese such as a Japanese American, etc.) would be welcomed in these areas if they had been invited or if hey had themselves made reservations at a teahouse. This would be relatively rare, I expect, because unless one speaks Japanese quite well the whole experience of sitting and being entertained by a geiko would be quite mystifying and wasted. Like a deaf person given a ticket to a symphony. It would be largely pointless. I know an American who used to frequent the tea houses and sit with the mamas--he was a filmmaker and photographer and for whatever reason they took to him. He spoke, as far as I knew, little Japanese, but somehow communicated and even came out with a few books of photography for the girls working at the time (upwards of 15 years ago now.) So someone like him, he would be allowed around. It's the clueless influencers who want to livestream their walk through geisha-land for their gazillion followers who are unwelcome. Or anyone just there "to look."