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Small-Scale Question Sunday for December 31, 2023

Do you have a dumb question that you're kind of embarrassed to ask in the main thread? Is there something you're just not sure about?

This is your opportunity to ask questions. No question too simple or too silly.

Culture war topics are accepted, and proposals for a better intro post are appreciated.

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Menswear question: I've found myself in the market for a new suit for a formal social occasion (needs to look good in photos). I have one from over a decade ago that probably still fits, but it seems like a good time to get a new one. That said, I don't really expect to get it much use out of it, because my line of work (engineering) is mostly business casual, and even when I've been interviewing within the last few years, it's just too warm here (American South) to wear a jacket around probably 10 months out of the year. But it's not inconceivable that I might want one to wear to the odd business meeting, funeral, or such.

My timeline is within the next month or so, and I figure my budget is at most a few hundred (probably not enough for a bespoke suit, although IMO that's a poor option because I really don't know what I'm looking for). Does the Motte have any good advice on what to look for or avoid? Fabrics, color (aforementioned occasion recommends blue, but not a specific shade), cut, features, specific brands or stores (I live in a fairly large city, but don't really want to go too far)? I'm not that familiar with current trends (slow as they move, they're not completely static in menswear), and I'm sure some of our members wear suits regularly and have strong opinions or good advice.

I'm afraid you're probably going to have to spend more than a few hundred to get anything other than a bottom-of-the market polyester blend, which will honestly do in a pinch but which I would avoid if I can help it. I'd recommend going to a mass-market place like Jos. A. Bank and let their salesmen put you in some suits so you can get a feel for what you like. Youtuber Legal Eagle is sponsored by some internet-direct company he says he gets all the suits he wears in his videos from, and it looks like their stuff is in your price range, but I have no experience ordering suits online so proceed with caution. The advantage you get from in-store is that the salesman's job is to make you look as good as possible and he'll be very up-front if something isn't going to work. He also knows that tailoring is more important than the suit itself, i.e. a cheap, well-tailored suit will look better on you than an expensive designer suit worm off the rack. Also, get on this soon. If you need a suit for a particular occasion keep in mind that you don't just walk out of the store with your suit the same day. Once you pick what you want they send it out (or keep it in) for tailoring which may take up to a few weeks depending on how busy they are.

As for what to buy, my general rule is to avoid anything synthetic. It tends to have a cheap, glossy look. Wool is usually the workhorse, but cotton, linen, mohair, gabardine, etc. are often seen in various places and combinations. Since you're in the South, I'd tell the salesman you're looking for a summer weight suit. These may be cotton, linen, lightweight wool, or a blend of these. The only downside is most summer suits are in light colors, so you may have to do some looking to find something that's suitable for formal occasions and funerals, though it shouldn't be too hard to find. Speaking of color, navy blue is a workhorse. So is charcoal. Anything else is probably too advanced and less versatile for someone who needs to ask. If you don't think there are people who care about this, remember all the flack Obama took for wearing a tan suit to a press conference? As for cut, it depends. The slim-cut look has been in for a while now, and you can pull it off if you're reasonably slim. The only problem is that its days may be numbered and if you put on weight they don't take too well to altering. That being said, the more extreme designs of a decade ago have been moderated, so it may be a better option than it once was. If you're more corpulent or are just looking for a more timeless look, than a more traditional cut is advisable. You're salesman will tell you if you have the body to pull off whatever look you're going for.

Thanks for the advice! I wandered over to my local Jos. A. Bank store and ended up with a suit I think I'm happy with. It may be that I'm lucky in terms of proportions, or that they offer a wider variety of off-the-rack sizes than in the past, but it seems like the only tailoring that it needs will be hemming the pants slightly. I did opt for a synthetic fabric, partially because it was cheaper, and partially because I actually liked the feel of it a bit more than the wool (still dry clean only). I'll consider that an experiment for now, I guess.

They did have a nice linen jacket I liked the look of, but didn't really have a use case for right now.

Ugh, synthetic suit. I was going to recommend something like https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-suit-ss23

Unfortunately, they don't make them in tropical wool.

synthetic suit

I have mixed feelings on synthetics (setting aside environmental/sustainability). This one (from a reputable brand), at least, seems to avoid the cheap stiffness of the "discount graduation suit" or "cheap waitstaff uniform" synthetics that I think the original complaints were applied to. I find it amusing that the fashion and sewing communities always describe cotton, linen, and sometimes wool as "naturally cooling" and polyester, lycra, and nylon as the worst choices, while the outdoor and sports communities really reject cotton specifically and all my sportswear is almost exclusively some combination of those three synthetics.

Cotton, in particular, is really uncomfortable wet and I sweat profusely and easily (and often, see American South). After some experimentation, I actually prefer poly-blend shirts to cotton (which is nearly universally-recommended as "higher-quality" and "cooler") because they dry faster and don't visibly show dampness quite as much. I've also found that the synthetic fibers are more mechanically durable generally. I don't really expect this to fully translate to outerwear like a suit jacket, but again it's a bit of an experiment.

Your mileage may vary.