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Transnational Thursday for June 13, 2024

Transnational Thursday is a thread for people to discuss international news, foreign policy or international relations history. Feel free as well to drop in with coverage of countries you’re interested in, talk about ongoing dynamics like the wars in Israel or Ukraine, or even just whatever you’re reading.

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In Japan, after the long dark of tourist-free COVID and with a yen at its weakest in almost 40 years, the throngs of visitors have returned. With a vengeance.

Issues include: People dropping their garbage in various inappropriate places (including Mt. Fuji, which you now must pay to climb, as well as anywhere else since public garbage bins are not particularly common in Japan), overcrowding tourist spots or places near tourist spots (like parking lots), harassing geiko (geisha) by aggressively demanding photo ops, and generally poor form..

I read an article recently (written by a Japanese guy) that this is all Japan"s fault. <- This is in Japanese but a good summary is in this X thread.. Basically the argument is that when Japan began stressing the term omotenashi in its bid for the Olympics, a term which basically means "generous hospitality," the idea on planet earth suddenly became that Japanese are pushovers and you can come here, kick up your feet, and be served warm sake by subservient and obedient Japanese hosts, we are at. Your. Service. Thus people, armed with this knowledge, arrive in hordes to take advantage.

I think the above argument, while you have to give it kudos for being self-flagellating in the best Japanese sense (while also slightly condescending and arrogant--because do foreign visitors really look up and try to understand esoteric terms like omotenashi? I wouldn't think so.) is somewhat off the mark.

What it boils down to is Japanese manners and customs are simply less boisterous in most contexts than those of the visiting cultures. So people talking in normal voices on trains is somewhat nerve-wracking. People walking three or four abreast down a busy sidewalk is outrageous. And of course manhandling Kohana-chan on her way to the teahouse because damn this is an Instagram moment if ever there was one, is, yes, a bit gauche.

But it's pretty bad. Shinsaibashi is like Chinatown on steroids. You see lines 2 blocks long to get into Hermès and Rolex, though the Richard Mille shops still seem quiet and relatively unpopulated. I hear more Korean in some areas than Japanese.

Anyway so far it's just a matter of Japan being--inexplicably--unprepared for a large number of international travelers. Solutions have not been particularly inspired. In Kyoto they simply do not let tourists enter certain sidestreets in Gion.. I expect the bottom-line folks are loving it, but the regular Japanese in most areas do not. Kyoto is, for me, at least on the normal circuits I would traverse, no longer very pleasant. But then I'm a tetchy ass.

I will be visiting Japan for the first time next year to attend Expo 2025 in Osaka. I have previously attended Expo 2010 and Expo 2015. Expo 2010 was one of the largest gatherings of human beings in history. Expo 2025 might become quite crowded if Chinese tourists arrive in significant numbers.

I wonder if Asian tourists will populate the Expo. Probably some. I don't know how many. I think a lot of Chinese come over just to do shopping, and not necessarily much else. (I am making this up; I don't actually know.) Do you have tickets already? I think there will be many, many Japanese there, as it's certainly something heralded locally as a thing to go to.

Japanese tourists have high expectations, but everyone understands what those are and interactions tend to be smooth. The issue with non-Japanese is often not that they are barbaric (though some, of course, are) but it's like a game of Ice Hockey and suddenly a team shows up geared to play tennis, or rugby, or Calvinball. A lot of scrambling and confusion.

Anyway I live on the outside of Osaka, and I pass through the city regularly. Perhaps like ships we will pass in the night. Or afternoon.